Its Sunday evening in Dushanbe, and we have come to the Relief International office to use the Internet connection. We waited to arrive late so we can use Skype to call home and it will be Sunday morning there. Even if we wake up our wives, we all know they are glad to hear from us.
We arrived back in Dushanbe Friday by plane, and then relaxed a little before back to work. We did some shopping at the big store that has “everything”, I’m not sure how its spelled but its pronounced ZOOM. That is where we hit the Lapis stall and made sure are wives will be content. I’m buying one of everything to make sure I got the right one, Andy buying the lightest to carry, and George knows exactly what style his wife likes so he buys based on that! It is fun because this is one of those places where price is negotiable.
That evening Andy wants to work, so George and I walk to a not too distant Chinese restaurant. Our first Chinese food in country. It was good, especially the fried noodles. We walk back and venture into a store to see what is available, I picked up some blank cdroms for 1 somoni each. One dollar equal about 3.2 somoni.
Back at the apartment, then we start working too. It rained that day, and because of the old pipes in the city water system, soil leaks in, so now our water is coming out the color of coffee or chocolate milk, its tough to decide. We don’t even know if we would come out cleaner than when we went in if we take a shower?
There is a store nearby and we buy bottle water for everything. I bought some chips there that have flavors we don’t. I got a “ham & cheese” bag and a “shish kabob” flavor. Both were GOOOOOD! I bought some type of carbonated peach drink, I’m not sure if it was alcoholic or not, it was in that section, but there weren’t any indications of % content on the bottle. For beers here, the big brand is “Baltica” and you can buy Baltica 1 thru Baltica 9. There is some variation is appearance, like a 4 looks like a ‘dark ale’, but basically the number is the % alcohol. We are generally too dehydrated to get to take advantage of the beer. That would really mess us up if we drank that and our bodies were expecting water!
Saturday we went to the museum that has the “Sleeping Bhudda”. It’s the largest sleeping bhudda in this part of the world. Our group was the only ones at the museum, so the docent would take us to a room, turn the lights on, let us look, then go to another room, turn its lights on, point for us to go that way, then go behind us and turn the lights off in last room. They actually had some very fine pieces in this museum, including some hominid skulls that were in quite interesting states. Unfortunately, no photography was allowed in museum. I scoped the place out and determined that they didn’t have security cameras, 1 point for me. So then since the docent had to come and go, I knew I could be ‘unobserved’, another point for me. I had my camera hanging on my shoulder, so anything I did would have to be shot from the waist, hopefully pointing in the right direction. So I asked George to cough and I would shoot then so his noise would cover my camera noise. We did this once or twice, got some shots, but I overshot the bhudda, so I have to be happy with the postcard I bought. It was worth a try!
Today were worked in the apartment, and then met our handler at the Chinese restaurant. George and I liked it and Andy hadn’t been, we order and shared and it was another wonderful meal. Unfortunately they were out of those fried noodles, but the steamed dumplings we substituted were great too!
I was fairly done with my Monday presentation, so my partners headed back while Susie took me to the Green Bazaar (it has green gate at entrance). Got some dresses and some “atlas” material for dress making. Also bought some fresh cherries, 5 somoni for 0.5 kg, you do the math! I ate all the cherries in one sitting, they were delicious!
After the green market we hit these two little antique shops. There was this well done, ornate, but old jacket/coat there that caught Susie’s eye. The first price we heard on it was about $110 dollars. We bought various little items, and I was excited because I found my soviet era stuff, I have been wanting, but between every transaction/negotiation, they tried to sell her that jacket. By the time we left, she got it for $40. I was happy with all the things I found, I even got a cool soviet military officer’s hat for $10. I bought some rubble coins, Lenin banner, hammer and sickle flag, and a very antique pearl necklace for a price that will never be disclosed! I even got a Soviet pin from the 1980 Olympics. I basically spent almost all the money remaining in my wallet! Not sure if that is good or bad, but I love all my purchases.
Tomorrow we do our final presentations to the Dushanbe Deaf School, as they also have an ILC there. I'll do mine primary as a photo essay on the Faces of Tajikistan. I got enough great images I need to select about 25, get nice matted large prints done, and work on getting an exhibition somewhere like the Houston Center for Photography or a local library. I also put together a short but sweet presentation on “10 things I learned in Tajikistan”. I learned other things that aren’t in the presentation, like how to sleep on the floor, how to take a shower one cup of water at a time, things like that, but I don’t have good photos for, so they didn’t make it to the final ten.
All you readers, please remember, once I am back, I will be adding so many more images to this blog, back into the existing entries; so please remember to check back often so you can see some of them.
It is very strange to feel like I have two homes now. It also is going to be very strange to apart from Andy and George. We have spent almost all our waking hours together for almost 20 days. I have been blessed be every acquaintance I have made on this journey.
If you have never been, you should consider an adventure in Tajikistan. Pack light, bring a extra bag for things to take home. You won’t need a hotel, just go meet some people and someone will always invite into their home. This is no joke. I was walking in Khujand, taking pictures of the mosque. A fellow photographers comes up to me and wants to know if I speak English (the red/white/blue bandana on my head was a good clue). We met, exchange names, a little background, next thing you know he’s introducing me to his friends and wants me and my group to come to his house for dinner. He’s known me for less than 10 minutes! That is just the way people are here. I am looking forward to the day that I come back to Tajikistan!
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Saturday, April 29, 2006
More pictures from Isfara
My 'Tajik brother' Ibrahim, has posted a collection of photos from his camera online
you can click on this link
Thanks Bro
you can click on this link
Thanks Bro
Friday, April 28, 2006
Day Fifteen - Dushanbe
We arrive back via plane to Dushanbe.
No official school visits, but we did visit the ILC placed at the Islamic Univeristy here in the capital. The director gave us a wonderful tour of the adjoining mosque.
It is friday and the midday friday session is the biggest one of the week, so we got some photos a little while before it started.
I had never been in a mosque until the day before, and this was the first time I have been in one while "in session".
I guess because of american television's impact on me, I get this uneasy feeling someone is going to yell "INFIDELS" and they all come after us and thats the last you hear from me.
What happens, I make eye contact with this one guy praying and I had the urge to offer my hand to shake, he shakes, jumps up, smiles,
and indicates we are to have our picture taken together. Turned my stereotype 100% around!
Reminder - we all all married, so we did some shopping with our wives in mind
No official school visits, but we did visit the ILC placed at the Islamic Univeristy here in the capital. The director gave us a wonderful tour of the adjoining mosque.
It is friday and the midday friday session is the biggest one of the week, so we got some photos a little while before it started.I had never been in a mosque until the day before, and this was the first time I have been in one while "in session".
I guess because of american television's impact on me, I get this uneasy feeling someone is going to yell "INFIDELS" and they all come after us and thats the last you hear from me.What happens, I make eye contact with this one guy praying and I had the urge to offer my hand to shake, he shakes, jumps up, smiles,
and indicates we are to have our picture taken together. Turned my stereotype 100% around!
Reminder - we all all married, so we did some shopping with our wives in mind
Day Thirteen - Istaravshan
We are welcomed at another school. This time we had the Tajiki drum we love so much, but a boy also was playing this huge horn.
We are greeted with the bread and salt,
but we’re also given these purple live flowers that just had an amazing fragrance.
Children on both sides of the walkway lined up waving flowers. Smiles, cheers, “Welcome”. This is like the 10th time we’ve been welcome but its still totally overwhelming.
I straggled behind the group and played photographer – smiles in any direction I was pointing. We made it up the steps, did some group photos with the school staff,
and then into the building, so we can sit at our usual “feast table”. We were treated to poetry,
a song,
dancing, then we had to dance, we were each given a student made stuffed animal by the student who made it
(I got a cool purple dog). They showed us the traditional process for their special cradles they use for when the baby’s first nights.
After all the presentation we head to the ILC for our turn to do presentations. I had the day off, since I had done the last two. This was actually one George’s partner schools, so he had goodies for them from his students. Andy also did a great student experience with his leadership activities.
He had a large excited, ‘gung-ho’ group of kids. I photographed and assisted Andy as much as possible. Every now and then, about 3 or 4 times, I would wonder off into the school yard and start playing with the chain and ring. The crowds were so massive I could feel them on 3 sides of me. Everyone within viewing distance joined up. Then on echild brought me a postcard and wanted to sign it. So I printed my name, signed my name and added ‘Houston, Texas USA’. Then comes some papers, then notebooks and before you knew I had signed 50 or 60 autographs. I needed to go in an check on things, and everything was good so I went back outside and ended up doing another 50 plus autographes. This time their was this one little girl I made a connection with so I played with her a little with everyone around and ended up putting my McDonald’s bandana on her and given her a kiss on top of the head.
The noise at that point was incredible. The phrases I have found all Tajiki kids know in English:
“Good morning” – they say it anytime of day
“What is your name?”
“One, two, three, four”
One student had camera, and wanted picture with me. It took me five minutes to get the crowd to open a path between the photographer kid and me and the student, and I bet she still gets 25 extra kids in the shot! A teacher comes out and runs the kids to wherever so I go back inside.
Things are still good, so I go back outside again with my digital camera, but I got to a different side of the school. Next thing you know I am swarmed, but since I got the camera, they are telling me they want their picture taken with me. So now I got kid photographers fighting over who go to use the camera (these are elementary age kids) and kids fighting over who is going to be in the photo or where they get to stand.
We get some done, unfortunately, the kids are the best photographers and heads get chopped off and things like that. We do this until the batteries go out.
I go inside and put the camera away, and my partners are doing fine without me, so I stat walking around and here they come with their pens and paper. So I go into a classroom so I can sit at a desk, and do autographs until there is no one left wanting my autograph. I write nice little comments now since I had the time so when they got it translated they would feel good or special. By the time I was done, I probably autographed over 200 items. Never in a million years would I have guessed I would experience that.
I was talking about this experience with my partners, trying to figure out anything that would be equivalent. A visiting foreigner would not have the sameeffect in the US, because students have foreigners sitting next to them in class sometime. The best comparison would be if we told the students a Space Shuttle Astronaut was visiting. Even though the kids may know nothing about the person, his job/title makes him special. And the astronaut probably doesn’t feel that special because he’s just doing his job when he’s in space. Here we are just teachers, but because we come from the other side of the world, we are treated like very honored guest.
So now I’m in the gym with Andy’s crew photographing them, and its time for the “crossing the river challenge” which is going to be done outside. So in the gym he breaks them into four groups tells them he’ll instruct inside so they can hear better. We finally go outside and I don’t believe. This is this huge crow of people in this oval shape. Reminded me of a bunch of people waiting to watch gladiators. They see we are coming and their cheers and claps like the home team just came out to defend the championship at a major sporting event.
I climb up on a water fountain a decent distance away to get above the crowd shots in the inside.
The crowd is so big, I can’t fit them into one picture! So I work my way through them into the middle for good action shots.
To be continued…
We are greeted with the bread and salt,
but we’re also given these purple live flowers that just had an amazing fragrance.
Children on both sides of the walkway lined up waving flowers. Smiles, cheers, “Welcome”. This is like the 10th time we’ve been welcome but its still totally overwhelming.
I straggled behind the group and played photographer – smiles in any direction I was pointing. We made it up the steps, did some group photos with the school staff,
and then into the building, so we can sit at our usual “feast table”. We were treated to poetry,
a song,
dancing, then we had to dance, we were each given a student made stuffed animal by the student who made it
(I got a cool purple dog). They showed us the traditional process for their special cradles they use for when the baby’s first nights.
After all the presentation we head to the ILC for our turn to do presentations. I had the day off, since I had done the last two. This was actually one George’s partner schools, so he had goodies for them from his students. Andy also did a great student experience with his leadership activities.
He had a large excited, ‘gung-ho’ group of kids. I photographed and assisted Andy as much as possible. Every now and then, about 3 or 4 times, I would wonder off into the school yard and start playing with the chain and ring. The crowds were so massive I could feel them on 3 sides of me. Everyone within viewing distance joined up. Then on echild brought me a postcard and wanted to sign it. So I printed my name, signed my name and added ‘Houston, Texas USA’. Then comes some papers, then notebooks and before you knew I had signed 50 or 60 autographs. I needed to go in an check on things, and everything was good so I went back outside and ended up doing another 50 plus autographes. This time their was this one little girl I made a connection with so I played with her a little with everyone around and ended up putting my McDonald’s bandana on her and given her a kiss on top of the head.
The noise at that point was incredible. The phrases I have found all Tajiki kids know in English:“Good morning” – they say it anytime of day
“What is your name?”
“One, two, three, four”
One student had camera, and wanted picture with me. It took me five minutes to get the crowd to open a path between the photographer kid and me and the student, and I bet she still gets 25 extra kids in the shot! A teacher comes out and runs the kids to wherever so I go back inside.
Things are still good, so I go back outside again with my digital camera, but I got to a different side of the school. Next thing you know I am swarmed, but since I got the camera, they are telling me they want their picture taken with me. So now I got kid photographers fighting over who go to use the camera (these are elementary age kids) and kids fighting over who is going to be in the photo or where they get to stand.
We get some done, unfortunately, the kids are the best photographers and heads get chopped off and things like that. We do this until the batteries go out.I go inside and put the camera away, and my partners are doing fine without me, so I stat walking around and here they come with their pens and paper. So I go into a classroom so I can sit at a desk, and do autographs until there is no one left wanting my autograph. I write nice little comments now since I had the time so when they got it translated they would feel good or special. By the time I was done, I probably autographed over 200 items. Never in a million years would I have guessed I would experience that.
I was talking about this experience with my partners, trying to figure out anything that would be equivalent. A visiting foreigner would not have the sameeffect in the US, because students have foreigners sitting next to them in class sometime. The best comparison would be if we told the students a Space Shuttle Astronaut was visiting. Even though the kids may know nothing about the person, his job/title makes him special. And the astronaut probably doesn’t feel that special because he’s just doing his job when he’s in space. Here we are just teachers, but because we come from the other side of the world, we are treated like very honored guest.
So now I’m in the gym with Andy’s crew photographing them, and its time for the “crossing the river challenge” which is going to be done outside. So in the gym he breaks them into four groups tells them he’ll instruct inside so they can hear better. We finally go outside and I don’t believe. This is this huge crow of people in this oval shape. Reminded me of a bunch of people waiting to watch gladiators. They see we are coming and their cheers and claps like the home team just came out to defend the championship at a major sporting event.
I climb up on a water fountain a decent distance away to get above the crowd shots in the inside.
The crowd is so big, I can’t fit them into one picture! So I work my way through them into the middle for good action shots.To be continued…
Day Twelve - 2nd Day in Isfara
I started the morning outside carving erasers, to prepare for my letterbox activity. Before you knew it, all four children are around me checking things out. So the first stamp I made was a butterfly, so after inking it and testing on paper, I did the top of everyone had. They were so happy. Well, I had more stamp to do, so basically by the time I was threw all the ids had 4 “tattoos” on the arms. Then I got called in for breakfast. They fed us great, I don’t think they know any other way.
We started our schedule with some sightseeing. We went to the sanitarium, which has a famous teahouse located on its premises.
This is more of a ‘de-stress’ type location instead of a proper medical one. They even had a pond and paddleboats. Of course we had tea in the teahouse, admired its wonderful architecture and just relaxed a little bit. The sanatorium is located next to a river and is a pleasant place. Then we were off to see a famous woodworker. We arrived and he had samples of his work laid out for us on a kot.
We examined and had stories told to us about the pieces or the woods they were made from. He also showed us the sharpening stone that had been in his family for 7 generations. His family had been doing this for quite a while. The he showed us his little setup that was his ‘no electricity’ workbench. Basically the guy had a hand powered lathe. It was quite ingenious and looked over 100 years old besides the rusty bolts that maybe have been a little less then 100, but definitely we added later as an upgrade. What was kind of neat was this setup required both hands and both feet. He operated it in lathe mode and drilling mode. All I can say was it was too impressive to see how this simple thing worked so well. Sharp tools are an essential, we determined, and that must be why he was so proud of the family sharpening stone. We were then back to the kot to started trying to buy his goods. Unfortunately the majority of the good stuff was not for sale as he had a competition he was going to soon and needed those for the competition. I ended up getting an unvarnished non-stamp, as they traditional use a device to make patterns in the top of the non here. Bread is a big deal here and one of the custom I read about was don’t lay the bread upside down, and I’m thing how can you tell the top from the bottom? When I got here, I was educated, they mark the top with patterns before baking. Since my was unvarnished, I asked that he sign his name, expecting a pen or marker. Nope, even better, he used is wood burning tool and signed his named and added the towns name. I heard the nearby street is named after his family. Got some fabulous pictures of his elders, and his daughter, typical dress, in a nice environment. All the other stuff I wanted to buy was not for sale.
We were off to lunch, but not at a restaurant, but at another school in town. Again, wonderful greeting, plenty of presentations in English, very cute children. The two things making this one unique was they actually had a redish carpet rolled out for us, and among the presentation, they ‘performed’ Little Red Riding Hood in English with costume. We had lots of laughs on this one, it was so entertaining. When everything was over, we headed into the school for lunch, but unfortunately the staff wasn’t able to eat with us because the Ministry of Education people had shown up for an ‘audit’ and they were busy with them. After lunch we hoped in the car and headed back to Ibrahim’s school.
This time our presentation were for the teaching staff, primarily what they call the lead teachers. George and I were doing them simultaneously. Mine was on two main areas; resources on the internet for doing simulations, and online educational content and online college courses. All internet resources were free. I wasn’t on a projector, so my audience of 5 gathered around my laptop, but it was connected to internet so I could demonstrate some of the sites! I found it a pleasant experience.
I had double duty today, as mentioned these are my ‘Tajiki’ kids, so I was allowed to interact with them a lot. [Thanks Susie] So the next thing I did was the letterboxing activity with the students while Andy hid and documented the clues while I was doing the presentation. Most schools have little vendor stalls right on campus or next to it, with snacks and school supplies. I bought 15 extra erasers when we were walking back from lunch earlier, to be sure with my supplies everyone would have one to carve. My presentation went very well, and the kids started carving as soon as the tools were in their hands. I had a departure deadline last school we did this at, so we only had time to go out together and find one, using the one I had carved earlier on that day.
Well, during my presentation, Andy went back and check on his placement, of the four, two were already missing, so we took my fifth and put it out, and as part of my demonstration, I started a sixth and let a student finish it. We were using 35mm film canisters as our letterbox containers. These kids were impressive carvers, many doing both sides of their eraser, and also planning multicolor designs. Well, we had 4 teams worth of students, so we had 3 teams go after the 3 remaining boxes, while team our planted the new stamped the student finished for me. These group totally got all phases of the experience and totally understand what the activity is like, so hopefully they will continue. I had all the finished stampers stamp in my logbook and put their names for me, so I could be reminded of this fun experience. Because of its low investment to participate, this hobby actually works well in this environment because they also have plenty of green spaces and also places with holes in walls, to hide letterboxes. I am curious to see how things are six months from now, maybe they’ll start a letterboxing club at the school or even setup a Tajiki language letterbox site with clues!
More pictures and this time I had them do the names and faces picture again. Fun activity for them because now they are posing. I was surprised how individual students throughout the afternoon would bring me gifts or gifts they told me to give to McKenzie. Since I had been there they day before and did the home and family presentation, I guess a few of them decided to find gifts for me they could give on my second visit. I was given all sorts of things; from a large Tajiki dish to bracelets and books. [If Isfara students are reading this – you are #1] I also gave out a few more things I had, and if anyone gave me a gift, I tried to give one also.
The disappointing thing, and all three of us teachers really wanted to do this, one of the students the day before had mentioned she and her family would be honored if we could visit their home. This is one of our favorite things to do. We are here to learn about typical Tajikistan, and the home visits have been so enlightening. Unfortunately, because of prior commitments, we couldn’t go, but we weren’t able to find the young lady to give her the unfortunate news until late in the afternoon, and I’m sure her family had already made preparations for our visit. Disappointing this girl has been the only low point of our entire trip so far. We have made so many efforts to put smiles on people’s faces any chance we’ve been given. And I knew her’s was fake as she was given the news.
The girl we had to turn down.
Well, as mentioned though, the day was a super success in all of our opinions, so we wanted to celebrate and find the appropriate place for a “cold one”. A ‘cold’ beverage is a rare commodity in this country as mentioned. We found the beverage, but temperature was typical, but it was the symbolism that was important. We were up on a elevated platform and just below us were three Tajikistan Army officers, based on all the stars. I said “I wonder if I should go down and entertain them”. Susie, our supervisor said “I’d like to see that”, she was expecting I would do it. If you know me, you know I did. I got three new comrades from that experience! Stop and think, you got three high ranking military officials enjoying dinner, and here comes a red/white/blue bandana wearing “Amerikanski” sit down, doesn’t say and word and starts working with these guys to do the ring and chain trick. We had some laugh at the table, so good hand shakes, smiles and I left the trick with the guy with the most stars!
My group quit worrying about me when I returned to the table. They were all totally in shock, especially the locals. The ring and chain have made me invincible in this town. As soon as people figure out I am doing something to put a smile (or puzzled look) on their face, I am their friend!
After our beverage we returned to Ibrahim’s home for dinner. It was dark by now and when we drove up, I noticed 3 children outside playing. I went inside, put my stuff downand got three of the glow bracelets and headed outside, followed by Ibrahim and his mother both probably curious what I was up to. I made a little drama with the boys and then got each one a glowing bracelet. They have never seen anything like these so they were total in awe of the presents they got for no reason at all except that they crossed path with an American. When we got back inside his mother brought out gifts for us, to our total surprise. First, there was a handmade dress for my daughter. Then she gives me a full length coat, again handmade, traditional styling. I’d hate to put a price on this thing. My shoulders are a little broad, and the circumference is a little short, but I think with minor adjustments, this will fit my wife wonderfully, and she’ll have one of the few coats like this in North America. We were also given the waist scarves that men wear. Ibrahim gave me one his personal Tajiki Ties, and some Chinese papercuts from his collection and gave each of us a cdrom full of Tajiki mp3 files! Dinner was a tasteful and social event, as usual!
We started our schedule with some sightseeing. We went to the sanitarium, which has a famous teahouse located on its premises.
This is more of a ‘de-stress’ type location instead of a proper medical one. They even had a pond and paddleboats. Of course we had tea in the teahouse, admired its wonderful architecture and just relaxed a little bit. The sanatorium is located next to a river and is a pleasant place. Then we were off to see a famous woodworker. We arrived and he had samples of his work laid out for us on a kot.
We examined and had stories told to us about the pieces or the woods they were made from. He also showed us the sharpening stone that had been in his family for 7 generations. His family had been doing this for quite a while. The he showed us his little setup that was his ‘no electricity’ workbench. Basically the guy had a hand powered lathe. It was quite ingenious and looked over 100 years old besides the rusty bolts that maybe have been a little less then 100, but definitely we added later as an upgrade. What was kind of neat was this setup required both hands and both feet. He operated it in lathe mode and drilling mode. All I can say was it was too impressive to see how this simple thing worked so well. Sharp tools are an essential, we determined, and that must be why he was so proud of the family sharpening stone. We were then back to the kot to started trying to buy his goods. Unfortunately the majority of the good stuff was not for sale as he had a competition he was going to soon and needed those for the competition. I ended up getting an unvarnished non-stamp, as they traditional use a device to make patterns in the top of the non here. Bread is a big deal here and one of the custom I read about was don’t lay the bread upside down, and I’m thing how can you tell the top from the bottom? When I got here, I was educated, they mark the top with patterns before baking. Since my was unvarnished, I asked that he sign his name, expecting a pen or marker. Nope, even better, he used is wood burning tool and signed his named and added the towns name. I heard the nearby street is named after his family. Got some fabulous pictures of his elders, and his daughter, typical dress, in a nice environment. All the other stuff I wanted to buy was not for sale.
We were off to lunch, but not at a restaurant, but at another school in town. Again, wonderful greeting, plenty of presentations in English, very cute children. The two things making this one unique was they actually had a redish carpet rolled out for us, and among the presentation, they ‘performed’ Little Red Riding Hood in English with costume. We had lots of laughs on this one, it was so entertaining. When everything was over, we headed into the school for lunch, but unfortunately the staff wasn’t able to eat with us because the Ministry of Education people had shown up for an ‘audit’ and they were busy with them. After lunch we hoped in the car and headed back to Ibrahim’s school.
This time our presentation were for the teaching staff, primarily what they call the lead teachers. George and I were doing them simultaneously. Mine was on two main areas; resources on the internet for doing simulations, and online educational content and online college courses. All internet resources were free. I wasn’t on a projector, so my audience of 5 gathered around my laptop, but it was connected to internet so I could demonstrate some of the sites! I found it a pleasant experience.
I had double duty today, as mentioned these are my ‘Tajiki’ kids, so I was allowed to interact with them a lot. [Thanks Susie] So the next thing I did was the letterboxing activity with the students while Andy hid and documented the clues while I was doing the presentation. Most schools have little vendor stalls right on campus or next to it, with snacks and school supplies. I bought 15 extra erasers when we were walking back from lunch earlier, to be sure with my supplies everyone would have one to carve. My presentation went very well, and the kids started carving as soon as the tools were in their hands. I had a departure deadline last school we did this at, so we only had time to go out together and find one, using the one I had carved earlier on that day.
Well, during my presentation, Andy went back and check on his placement, of the four, two were already missing, so we took my fifth and put it out, and as part of my demonstration, I started a sixth and let a student finish it. We were using 35mm film canisters as our letterbox containers. These kids were impressive carvers, many doing both sides of their eraser, and also planning multicolor designs. Well, we had 4 teams worth of students, so we had 3 teams go after the 3 remaining boxes, while team our planted the new stamped the student finished for me. These group totally got all phases of the experience and totally understand what the activity is like, so hopefully they will continue. I had all the finished stampers stamp in my logbook and put their names for me, so I could be reminded of this fun experience. Because of its low investment to participate, this hobby actually works well in this environment because they also have plenty of green spaces and also places with holes in walls, to hide letterboxes. I am curious to see how things are six months from now, maybe they’ll start a letterboxing club at the school or even setup a Tajiki language letterbox site with clues!
More pictures and this time I had them do the names and faces picture again. Fun activity for them because now they are posing. I was surprised how individual students throughout the afternoon would bring me gifts or gifts they told me to give to McKenzie. Since I had been there they day before and did the home and family presentation, I guess a few of them decided to find gifts for me they could give on my second visit. I was given all sorts of things; from a large Tajiki dish to bracelets and books. [If Isfara students are reading this – you are #1] I also gave out a few more things I had, and if anyone gave me a gift, I tried to give one also.
The disappointing thing, and all three of us teachers really wanted to do this, one of the students the day before had mentioned she and her family would be honored if we could visit their home. This is one of our favorite things to do. We are here to learn about typical Tajikistan, and the home visits have been so enlightening. Unfortunately, because of prior commitments, we couldn’t go, but we weren’t able to find the young lady to give her the unfortunate news until late in the afternoon, and I’m sure her family had already made preparations for our visit. Disappointing this girl has been the only low point of our entire trip so far. We have made so many efforts to put smiles on people’s faces any chance we’ve been given. And I knew her’s was fake as she was given the news.
Well, as mentioned though, the day was a super success in all of our opinions, so we wanted to celebrate and find the appropriate place for a “cold one”. A ‘cold’ beverage is a rare commodity in this country as mentioned. We found the beverage, but temperature was typical, but it was the symbolism that was important. We were up on a elevated platform and just below us were three Tajikistan Army officers, based on all the stars. I said “I wonder if I should go down and entertain them”. Susie, our supervisor said “I’d like to see that”, she was expecting I would do it. If you know me, you know I did. I got three new comrades from that experience! Stop and think, you got three high ranking military officials enjoying dinner, and here comes a red/white/blue bandana wearing “Amerikanski” sit down, doesn’t say and word and starts working with these guys to do the ring and chain trick. We had some laugh at the table, so good hand shakes, smiles and I left the trick with the guy with the most stars!
My group quit worrying about me when I returned to the table. They were all totally in shock, especially the locals. The ring and chain have made me invincible in this town. As soon as people figure out I am doing something to put a smile (or puzzled look) on their face, I am their friend!
After our beverage we returned to Ibrahim’s home for dinner. It was dark by now and when we drove up, I noticed 3 children outside playing. I went inside, put my stuff downand got three of the glow bracelets and headed outside, followed by Ibrahim and his mother both probably curious what I was up to. I made a little drama with the boys and then got each one a glowing bracelet. They have never seen anything like these so they were total in awe of the presents they got for no reason at all except that they crossed path with an American. When we got back inside his mother brought out gifts for us, to our total surprise. First, there was a handmade dress for my daughter. Then she gives me a full length coat, again handmade, traditional styling. I’d hate to put a price on this thing. My shoulders are a little broad, and the circumference is a little short, but I think with minor adjustments, this will fit my wife wonderfully, and she’ll have one of the few coats like this in North America. We were also given the waist scarves that men wear. Ibrahim gave me one his personal Tajiki Ties, and some Chinese papercuts from his collection and gave each of us a cdrom full of Tajiki mp3 files! Dinner was a tasteful and social event, as usual!
Day Eleven - Isfara
I guess this was the high point of my trip, regardless of how great it was before and how it will be after, because Isfara is where my partner schools are. As soon as I knew I was coming to Tajikistan I started preparing items and supplies to bring and to leave. As I have mentioned earlier, I was able to get nice equipment such as the Classroom Performance System, plus sensors from HOBO and Vernier. I got posters and other materials from a multitude of sources. I also bought many items I hoped would be enjoyed here, and I guess right. Simple things like the ‘glow stick’ bracelets, the kids here have never seen anything like that. I had about 25 of those to give away. I was able to include a laptop as part of the CPS system, so it would be a dedicated system that could be moved between rooms. I was also able to give my previous laptop, to my main contact, Ibrahim.
Well, we flew out of Dushanbe about 9am over some mountains. I was in the last row of the plan, and I didn’t have a window. George was in front of me, so he would take a picture with his digital camera, then show me and Andy the LCD screen so we could see what was out the window. Kind of funny, but we were better off then the 4 people behind us who didn’t have seats at all! We think they we crew related. We think one guy had the bathroom door open and sat on that seat.
We arrive just fine, as did our bags. We see some people waving, so we assume that some people from the local school; it was. We go out the front of the airport and we get the ceremonial welcome treatment, with 5 beautiful girls in traditional dresses presenting us bread (non) and salt. We were given flowers and recited poetry. This was strictly an airport welcome as we were off to Isfara. The local school did all that just so we would have a welcome. Are these people great or what?
After a very scenic journey, and a small ‘misunderstanding” at a checkpoint (and I was asked to erase certain images from my camera, we made it to Isfara. We arrive at one school, minor attention from locals, then walk to another for an outstanding treatment. First the confusing part. The ILC had been setup at a public school. Just the week before, the director of that school and all the staff basically went and formed a private school (teachers go because they pay better). So we walked to this school from the school where the ILC was, because the ILC is where Ibrahim works.
The ceremonial bread/salt, flowers, recitations in Tajik and English, cheers and claps from the two long rows of well dress students. Luckily I was playing photographer because the next event was teaching Americans Tajiki dancing! I got great shots of George and Andy and the crowd with big smiles on their faces.
Now comes the impressive part. These schools each somehow manage to present something original to us, and none have coordinated with each other, which impresses me. This time our unique treat was we were treated to a martial arts demonstration. These students were great. I got another one of my favorite images, a girl in the front row was trying to be very serious and a friend was at a window in front of her and somehow made her laugh and I captured that moment. Such natural joy and beauty combined in one image, I am proud of it. They did part of their routine to a Mortal Kombat theme, too cool. They even broke tiles. Then to top it all off, we find out from their instructor later, they have only been doing this for one year.
We are treated to a sample of a Physics class and a history class. I thought it was impressive that a section of the class learns in Tajik language and the other portion learns in Russian in the physics class. So he had students come to the board and do Speed/Distance problems. The two girls that came up each did it one in Tajiki and the other is Russian. After the history class, was a typical multi-course feast. You have to understand, when we arrive at a table, there is barely space for your tea bowl, the table is plate to plate of nuts, fruits, cookies, veggies, candies, bread, jams, raisons, everything! Before you know it, you have to start shifting things and make room, so you pile stuff on top of each other. We ate with other teachers and had a few interesting questions, and a few laughs as usual. People every meal tell me to eat, like I don’t know how, too funny.
After lunch, some dancing by the young girls, seven of them. Was a wonderful thing to view, and again, totally different routine, nothing we had seen before. I think we walked about for a few minutes then headed back to the ILC. I get tons of pictures this way because students will be on courtyard and just freeze when the new visitors come by; snap snap!
We enter the ILC and guess what, a traditional greeting with bread and salt! These kids were especially happy to see us because they knew I was their stateside partner. It was planned that I would be doing presentations for these students for this reason. I did the the PowerPoint about my students, school and home, and then answering questions. Then for the biggy, I got out the CPS system and we did a 10 question test, most questions had illustrations this time. It was designed for a younger crowd, but the English was enough of a challenge to keep these kids involved. I gave the e-instruction hat to the highest score, and other e-instruction items to two students tied for second. Then I used the random student selection feature to distribute the rest of the e-instruction bracelets and pins. So after all this I ask the class if they liked it, they understood my English and responded back in English. So then I asked should I leave the system there or take it back to USA? They excited replied to leave it! So I told them I was going to, but they must use it and Relief International was going to check up on them. I let them know how special they were to be using it and they were the only people for over 1000 kilometers in any direction to have that technology available for their classroom. They were extremely pleased at this point. So now I spoke through a translator and told them how lucky I felt to be there and how it was like a dream to come true for me, and unfortunately I was getting “emotional”. We’ll I continued on and told how I had been communicating with their leader and he had expressed that his dream would be to have his own laptop, and I told the class I was going to make his dream come true also. I whipped it out of the bag and held it out to give to him amongst many cheers and claps. He was even more emotional than I was and hugged and cried and squeezed tears of joy from me too. This had everyone on their feet clapping for him. After everyone finally calmed down, he made a moving speech about dreams and tried to inspire the students, and when it got translated, he had said everything additional that I was going to say. This was absolutely great to me of course to be able to give so much to my partner school.
We interacted with the students, did question and answers formally and then individually as students wanted to talk to us. We did our “can I take a photo with you” images, gave and received emails and so on until it was our scheduled departure time. Everyone was happy when they left, as almost everyone in the room left with some kind of gift.
Ibrahim, the ILC manager, was going to host us for two night at his house. So the first night we met everyone but we treated to an exhibition on how they make their non (bread) because here in the north, the have a ‘side load” over instead of a “top load” oven, and I have seen both and its quite different. Every home we have stayed in seemed to have at least 3 generations present, plus a brother or sister with their family. This one was no different, and that what makes it great, there are people or children everywhere, and everyone wants to make sure you are comfortable and enjoying yourself in their home. We were also excited because it was semi-indoor plumbing, so I got to enjoy a “Tajiki Shower” and was quite refreshed.
Ibrahim’s mother is at the top of the family pyramid in the house and she is fantastic, wonderful sense of humor and very caring. She another one of the people who decided I have a “Tajiki” look about me, so translated that means I look like family! So I was treated great, like Ibrahim’s brother. Well, everyone sleeps on the floor, on mats, so they were making up the ‘guys’ room for the 3 teachers and Ibrahim. They were stacking the mats so we would have cushioning. She when to mat #2, and unfolding the mats the younger women had to folding in thirds, folded in back in half in stead, put it back on the ground, and told me that was my bed because it was wider! She said this without a word of English but all 6 people in the room including myself were absolutely cracking up laughing. The rest of the evening was all pleasant like that and I gave the kids coloring books and painting books. Sleep came soon after.
Well, we flew out of Dushanbe about 9am over some mountains. I was in the last row of the plan, and I didn’t have a window. George was in front of me, so he would take a picture with his digital camera, then show me and Andy the LCD screen so we could see what was out the window. Kind of funny, but we were better off then the 4 people behind us who didn’t have seats at all! We think they we crew related. We think one guy had the bathroom door open and sat on that seat.
We arrive just fine, as did our bags. We see some people waving, so we assume that some people from the local school; it was. We go out the front of the airport and we get the ceremonial welcome treatment, with 5 beautiful girls in traditional dresses presenting us bread (non) and salt. We were given flowers and recited poetry. This was strictly an airport welcome as we were off to Isfara. The local school did all that just so we would have a welcome. Are these people great or what?
After a very scenic journey, and a small ‘misunderstanding” at a checkpoint (and I was asked to erase certain images from my camera, we made it to Isfara. We arrive at one school, minor attention from locals, then walk to another for an outstanding treatment. First the confusing part. The ILC had been setup at a public school. Just the week before, the director of that school and all the staff basically went and formed a private school (teachers go because they pay better). So we walked to this school from the school where the ILC was, because the ILC is where Ibrahim works.
The ceremonial bread/salt, flowers, recitations in Tajik and English, cheers and claps from the two long rows of well dress students. Luckily I was playing photographer because the next event was teaching Americans Tajiki dancing! I got great shots of George and Andy and the crowd with big smiles on their faces.
Now comes the impressive part. These schools each somehow manage to present something original to us, and none have coordinated with each other, which impresses me. This time our unique treat was we were treated to a martial arts demonstration. These students were great. I got another one of my favorite images, a girl in the front row was trying to be very serious and a friend was at a window in front of her and somehow made her laugh and I captured that moment. Such natural joy and beauty combined in one image, I am proud of it. They did part of their routine to a Mortal Kombat theme, too cool. They even broke tiles. Then to top it all off, we find out from their instructor later, they have only been doing this for one year.
We are treated to a sample of a Physics class and a history class. I thought it was impressive that a section of the class learns in Tajik language and the other portion learns in Russian in the physics class. So he had students come to the board and do Speed/Distance problems. The two girls that came up each did it one in Tajiki and the other is Russian. After the history class, was a typical multi-course feast. You have to understand, when we arrive at a table, there is barely space for your tea bowl, the table is plate to plate of nuts, fruits, cookies, veggies, candies, bread, jams, raisons, everything! Before you know it, you have to start shifting things and make room, so you pile stuff on top of each other. We ate with other teachers and had a few interesting questions, and a few laughs as usual. People every meal tell me to eat, like I don’t know how, too funny.
After lunch, some dancing by the young girls, seven of them. Was a wonderful thing to view, and again, totally different routine, nothing we had seen before. I think we walked about for a few minutes then headed back to the ILC. I get tons of pictures this way because students will be on courtyard and just freeze when the new visitors come by; snap snap!
We enter the ILC and guess what, a traditional greeting with bread and salt! These kids were especially happy to see us because they knew I was their stateside partner. It was planned that I would be doing presentations for these students for this reason. I did the the PowerPoint about my students, school and home, and then answering questions. Then for the biggy, I got out the CPS system and we did a 10 question test, most questions had illustrations this time. It was designed for a younger crowd, but the English was enough of a challenge to keep these kids involved. I gave the e-instruction hat to the highest score, and other e-instruction items to two students tied for second. Then I used the random student selection feature to distribute the rest of the e-instruction bracelets and pins. So after all this I ask the class if they liked it, they understood my English and responded back in English. So then I asked should I leave the system there or take it back to USA? They excited replied to leave it! So I told them I was going to, but they must use it and Relief International was going to check up on them. I let them know how special they were to be using it and they were the only people for over 1000 kilometers in any direction to have that technology available for their classroom. They were extremely pleased at this point. So now I spoke through a translator and told them how lucky I felt to be there and how it was like a dream to come true for me, and unfortunately I was getting “emotional”. We’ll I continued on and told how I had been communicating with their leader and he had expressed that his dream would be to have his own laptop, and I told the class I was going to make his dream come true also. I whipped it out of the bag and held it out to give to him amongst many cheers and claps. He was even more emotional than I was and hugged and cried and squeezed tears of joy from me too. This had everyone on their feet clapping for him. After everyone finally calmed down, he made a moving speech about dreams and tried to inspire the students, and when it got translated, he had said everything additional that I was going to say. This was absolutely great to me of course to be able to give so much to my partner school.
We interacted with the students, did question and answers formally and then individually as students wanted to talk to us. We did our “can I take a photo with you” images, gave and received emails and so on until it was our scheduled departure time. Everyone was happy when they left, as almost everyone in the room left with some kind of gift.
Ibrahim, the ILC manager, was going to host us for two night at his house. So the first night we met everyone but we treated to an exhibition on how they make their non (bread) because here in the north, the have a ‘side load” over instead of a “top load” oven, and I have seen both and its quite different. Every home we have stayed in seemed to have at least 3 generations present, plus a brother or sister with their family. This one was no different, and that what makes it great, there are people or children everywhere, and everyone wants to make sure you are comfortable and enjoying yourself in their home. We were also excited because it was semi-indoor plumbing, so I got to enjoy a “Tajiki Shower” and was quite refreshed.
Ibrahim’s mother is at the top of the family pyramid in the house and she is fantastic, wonderful sense of humor and very caring. She another one of the people who decided I have a “Tajiki” look about me, so translated that means I look like family! So I was treated great, like Ibrahim’s brother. Well, everyone sleeps on the floor, on mats, so they were making up the ‘guys’ room for the 3 teachers and Ibrahim. They were stacking the mats so we would have cushioning. She when to mat #2, and unfolding the mats the younger women had to folding in thirds, folded in back in half in stead, put it back on the ground, and told me that was my bed because it was wider! She said this without a word of English but all 6 people in the room including myself were absolutely cracking up laughing. The rest of the evening was all pleasant like that and I gave the kids coloring books and painting books. Sleep came soon after.
Day Ten
Earth Day “Weekend”. We got a taxi and got a ride to the Dushanbe Arboretum, to participate in a Earth Day activity with Dushanbe School #10, the first school we had visited. There was a group of about 7 or 8 students and the ILC manager. We joined them in the trash pickup competition. I think we should have won since two of our boys found and old metal radiator, and it looked heavy and they were awarding points based on weight. They official you would hand your trash bag to would hold it up and announce the weight, and he would say “8”, and I’m thinking that is way more than eight pounds. Then I remember where I am at and must multiply by 2.2 to get kilograms, then all the weights start making better sense.
Where met American workers there from various NGO and Embassy staff, all very pleasant people. We also got the privilege to meet FLEX alumni students, these are students who spent a year in the US as an exchange student. The majority of them went for their senior year. Actually, they only go to year 11 here, so all had already graduated locally, but they got to graduate again in the US 12th grade. All spoke the most wonderful English, so it was easy to ask and answer questions. We all went to a Turkish restaurant together, and I barely remember what I ate because I was having a good time joking around with the students. Most are in university now studying for roles of leadership, such as International Business, Medical/Pharmacy School, and Economics. Tajikistan is very lucky to have the future of the country in the hands of young people like this.
We finally got to do some shopping. Unfortunately the first bazaar we went to could be described as “Made in China”. One of the most common things the garments are made of here is called Atlas Cloth, the beautifully colored patterned material used for the dresses. They even had fake Atlas Cloth there, where it just dyed onto white fabric, so its one sided. So we only picked up one or two items them, mainly Tajik produced beverages.
We headed back to the office to do some work now. Waiting for us was a lady and her daughter who had the real goods. Cloth, rugs, mats, clothes, purses, key fob and jewelry.
I picked up quite a few items, and it was a ‘negotiable’ experience, so that made it fun. She produces many of these items, or collects them from village women. What happens is these are made and are often given as gift, but get put away and sit there for ages. So these old people I guess sell them to her for some amount. Andy bought some type of rug that was over 100 years old, I bought a tablecloth that is over 35 years old, a purse that is 23 years old, this one I know exactly because 1983 is in embroider into the purse!
All had the most intricate handwork. I am looking forward to another experience like this as we travel tomorrow to the north. We leave in the morning to catch a plane to the north and I’ll get to visit the schools around Isfara that I have been teamed with. I have many things to leave with them.
We had dinner with a Relief International worker, Shukrat, and his family. This was nice to get to be in the home of one of the people who has been helping us make things happen. He has 3 beautiful children.
This is starting to drive me crazy, I have to keep saying “beautiful, wonderful, happy, great” for everything I describe. But it is true, so I guess that is what the rest of the week will be like.
Back at the apartment we started making preparation for our trip, we’ll be gone 5 days/4 nights. We finished/started laundry. Started packing suitcase and organizing our little tokens of “Americana” that we can leave behind to help with people remember our visits, but I don’t think our stuff is as memorable as the time we are spending with the people because of all the interactions with everyone directly, plus all the photos to prove we were their.
I think I leave my bandanas behind, besides the one I’ll be wearing. We’ve decided that makes me more American when I have that on.
Well, time for bed.
Where met American workers there from various NGO and Embassy staff, all very pleasant people. We also got the privilege to meet FLEX alumni students, these are students who spent a year in the US as an exchange student. The majority of them went for their senior year. Actually, they only go to year 11 here, so all had already graduated locally, but they got to graduate again in the US 12th grade. All spoke the most wonderful English, so it was easy to ask and answer questions. We all went to a Turkish restaurant together, and I barely remember what I ate because I was having a good time joking around with the students. Most are in university now studying for roles of leadership, such as International Business, Medical/Pharmacy School, and Economics. Tajikistan is very lucky to have the future of the country in the hands of young people like this.
We finally got to do some shopping. Unfortunately the first bazaar we went to could be described as “Made in China”. One of the most common things the garments are made of here is called Atlas Cloth, the beautifully colored patterned material used for the dresses. They even had fake Atlas Cloth there, where it just dyed onto white fabric, so its one sided. So we only picked up one or two items them, mainly Tajik produced beverages.
We headed back to the office to do some work now. Waiting for us was a lady and her daughter who had the real goods. Cloth, rugs, mats, clothes, purses, key fob and jewelry.
I picked up quite a few items, and it was a ‘negotiable’ experience, so that made it fun. She produces many of these items, or collects them from village women. What happens is these are made and are often given as gift, but get put away and sit there for ages. So these old people I guess sell them to her for some amount. Andy bought some type of rug that was over 100 years old, I bought a tablecloth that is over 35 years old, a purse that is 23 years old, this one I know exactly because 1983 is in embroider into the purse!
All had the most intricate handwork. I am looking forward to another experience like this as we travel tomorrow to the north. We leave in the morning to catch a plane to the north and I’ll get to visit the schools around Isfara that I have been teamed with. I have many things to leave with them.
We had dinner with a Relief International worker, Shukrat, and his family. This was nice to get to be in the home of one of the people who has been helping us make things happen. He has 3 beautiful children.
This is starting to drive me crazy, I have to keep saying “beautiful, wonderful, happy, great” for everything I describe. But it is true, so I guess that is what the rest of the week will be like.
Back at the apartment we started making preparation for our trip, we’ll be gone 5 days/4 nights. We finished/started laundry. Started packing suitcase and organizing our little tokens of “Americana” that we can leave behind to help with people remember our visits, but I don’t think our stuff is as memorable as the time we are spending with the people because of all the interactions with everyone directly, plus all the photos to prove we were their.
I think I leave my bandanas behind, besides the one I’ll be wearing. We’ve decided that makes me more American when I have that on.
Well, time for bed.
Tuesday, April 25, 2006
Faces of the North
We flew North of Dushanbe on Monday, and I wish to share some a the few faces I saw on this day
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